Gennaro Iovine built the oven himself in 1987 from volcanic stone hauled down from the slopes behind Ercolano. For thirty years it baked for the vico — the fishermen at lunch, families on Saturday night.
In the spring of 2020 the counter closed and the phone kept ringing. Nunzia started packing dough balls for neighbours; Ciro started driving them further. By the summer the kits were going to Milan.
— Nunzia and Ciro Iovine